April 10, 2025
Organic farming in Chiloé
This leader in Chiloé agritourism shares her knowledge of organic farming with tourists from all over the world.
There are mornings when I stand before the Pullao wetland and find it hard to believe what I’m seeing.
Just a few meters from the hotel, with the still water reflecting Chiloé‘s low clouds, they appear: the Hudsonian godwits. Long, elegant birds, with that slightly upward-curving bill that seems designed to probe the mud with surgical precision. They walk slowly, unhurried. As if they know they’ve earned it.
And have they ever.
The Hudsonian godwit (Limosa haemastica) comes from Alaska. Not with a layover, not in comfortable stages. It flies nearly 9,000 kilometers without stopping to rest or eat, for six straight days, crossing the Pacific to reach the wetlands of the archipelago. Round trip, it covers around 30,000 kilometers.
Thirty thousand kilometers. Nearly a full lap around the world. And the chosen destination is this wetland, right here, before us.
Weeks before departure, the bird gorges intensively to build up fat reserves, increasing its body weight by 30 to 40%. That is the fuel that carries it through the journey. Scientists at the Universidad Austral de Chile who study them affectionately and respectfully call them obese superathletes.
When they arrive in Chiloé during the austral summer, they do exactly what you’d expect after such a feat: they eat, rest, and recover their strength. The Pullao wetland, with its rich benthic life — tiny mollusks, crustaceans, organisms living in the mud — is to them what a fine meal is to a discerning traveler.
It is no coincidence that Chilean researchers fitted satellite transmitters to godwits captured precisely in this area to track their routes. Chiloé’s wetlands hold critical importance for these birds’ migratory route, and the international scientific community is well aware of this.
The Pullao Wetland, which lies just in front of Refugia Chiloé, is part of this network of coastal ecosystems that function as service stations for thousands of birds traveling between hemispheres. Without these wetlands, migration simply would not be possible.
At Refugia, we know this too. So when a guest asks what to do at dawn, the answer is often simple: dress warmly, walk to the wetland, and stand still for a moment.
There, with binoculars or without, you’ll understand why this corner of Chiloé is not only beautiful. It’s necessary.